The people behind the bottles: how migrant workers sustain Beaujolais wine

A striking figure: up to 40% of pickers are foreigners

According to Luc Pierron, president of Agri Emploi 69, around 30–40% of the 20,000 harvest workers in Beaujolais are foreign nationals. This figure has remained steady in recent years, suggesting not a temporary adjustment but a structural dependence.

The phenomenon is not limited to Beaujolais. Nationally, about 25% of harvest workers are foreign. In Burgundy, the figure reaches 28%, with more than 134 nationalities represented. Italians, Bulgarians, Poles, Spaniards, and Romanians make up the majority. This cosmopolitan workforce has become essential to French viticulture.

The Reality of Hiring in Beaujolais

The situation becomes clearer through the voice of David Ratignier, a Beaujolais winegrower and vice-president of the appellation’s organization. Speaking to RMC, he revealed that out of 39 manual harvesters, he employs 27 Bulgarians, 4 Czechs, and only 5 French people—most of them relatives or retirees.

“Since 2008, I no longer even try to recruit French workers. When they come, they stay two days, get tired, and complain,” he explained.

This blunt statement reflects the frustration of many winemakers: local workers are often unreliable, while foreign crews, usually organized in returning teams, bring consistency.

Beyond wages: the complexity of the debate

Contrary to popular belief, the shift is not primarily about wages. A Bulgarian picker earns €86 net per day, compared with €82 for a French worker, plus accommodation and transport support. While the French minimum wage (€11.88 gross per hour) is indeed higher than in Spain (€6.54) or Eastern Europe, the gap is not the decisive factor in Beaujolais.

Trade unions disagree. According to the CGT, many job offers remain pegged to the legal minimum, which does little to attract French youth to physically demanding vineyard work. The problem lies less in pure wages and more in perceived working conditions: physical strain, long days, basic housing, and limited long-term prospects.

Structural recruitment challenges

The shrinking French workforce

The shortage is not new. France faces a 30% deficit in harvest labor every year, with 300,000–400,000 seasonal workers needed nationally. In the 1980s, university students represented about 60% of harvest pickers. Today, earlier academic calendars, better opportunities in other sectors (hospitality, retail, construction), and a cultural shift away from agricultural work explain the decline.

The housing bottleneck

Accommodation is another obstacle. In Burgundy, nearly half of producers were unable to house their pickers in 2024 because their facilities no longer met legal standards. In the Médoc, the lack of housing is so severe that recruitment is capped. In Beaujolais, this issue is becoming increasingly pressing as regulations tighten.

Migration policy and its limits

In January 2024, France passed a new immigration law aiming to simplify the recruitment of foreign agricultural workers.
Seasonal jobs in viticulture are now officially recognized as “in-demand,” making visas easier to obtain. Yet, the law stopped short of granting pathways to permanent residency for seasonal workers, leaving them in precarious legal status year after year.

For winemakers, this creates a paradox: foreign workers are essential, yet their legal and social conditions remain fragile.

The consequences for wine quality

The stakes go beyond logistics. According to Jean-Marie Fabre, president of the Independent Winegrowers of France, labor shortages force estates to stretch harvests from five to eight or nine days. Grapes left longer on the vine risk oxidation, uneven ripeness, and loss of freshness, directly affecting wine quality. In Beaujolais, where style relies on vibrancy and fruit purity, this is a critical concern.

The 2025 harvest: earlier and more complex

In 2025, harvests began two weeks earlier than in 2024—August 23 for whites, August 25 for reds—due to hot weather and climate change. This shift reduced student availability even further and amplified the stress on producers scrambling to fill their teams. The Beaujolais is thus hit by a double shock: climate acceleration and labor scarcity.

Looking ahead: possible solutions

• Mechanization: Mechanical harvesters are increasingly common, though they cannot replace manual picking in steep slopes or for high-quality cuvées.
• Better wages and conditions: Some estates already offer €12.60 gross per hour, above minimum wage, to attract workers.
• Housing investment: Providing decent, legal accommodation is seen as essential to recruit and retain staff.
• Reframing the harvest as an experience: Some domains now market the vendanges as a cultural or social event, targeting young people seeking seasonal adventure.