France’s other Tuscany? Welcome to the Golden Stone villages of Beaujolais
Just northwest of Lyon, the "Pays des Pierres Dorées" dazzles with its warm-toned limestone villages, undulating vineyards, and heritage-rich landscapes. Often dubbed the "Tuscany of Beaujolais", this micro-region of around 43 villages is more than postcard pretty — it’s a geological, cultural, and viticultural mosaic with a golden thread running through it: the aalenian limestone, rich in iron oxide, glowing from ochre to burnt orange. But beneath the charm lies a complex story of stone, soil, and savoir-faire.
Where are the “Golden Stones”?
The “Golden Stones Region” lies in the southern Beaujolais, bordering the Monts d’Or and the Saône valley. Covering about 210 km² and comprising 43 communes, the territory is officially recognized in regional inventories.
The 43 villages that form a unique cultural landscape
The toponym Pierres Dorées refers to the limestone from the Aalenian stage (Jurassic, ~171–175 million years ago).
Depending on the discipline, it’s also known as calcaire de Couzon or calcaire à entroques — a fossil-rich, iron-laced stone with remarkable aesthetic and practical qualities.
How ancient seas created the Golden Stone
170 million years in the making
During the Jurassic, the region was submerged under a shallow, tropical sea — part of the ancient Tethys Ocean. Sediments built up over time, trapping remains of marine creatures like crinoids (sea lilies), which now form the recognizable entroques in the stone.
What makes this stone glow: iron, crinoids and sunshine
The golden hue comes from oxidized iron dispersed in the rock. The stone is:
- 70% calcite, 15% fossil fragments, 10% iron oxides
- Moderately hard (Mohs 3.5), making it easy to cut
- Formed in thin, oblique layers, giving a rustic elegance
- Sparkling under sunlight, almost luminescent
The Golden Stone as a building block
Centuries of extraction and craftsmanship
The golden stone has been quarried since at least the 15th century, with blocks exported as far as Switzerland.
Hundreds of quarries once dotted the hillsides.
Today, just two remain active:
- Bonave Quarry in Theizé, run by artisan Fabrice Molina
- Lafarge-Holcim deposits, used for cement
The last living quarries and their guardians
Some quarries like Glay, closed since 1947, have found new life as educational geosites — places for geology outreach and ecological conservation (e.g. bat habitats). This transformation reflects a regional shift from extraction to preservation.
Architecture bathed in light
Golden walls, Romanesque chapels and the art of restoration
The stone defines the aesthetic of over 29,000 traditional homes, hundreds of washhouses, and Romanesque chapels across the region. It was a symbol of status and craftsmanship, not just utility.
From Lyon’s historic heart to contemporary luxury homes
Lyon itself showcases golden stone in iconic buildings like:
- The Hôtel-Dieu’s courtyard
- Facades in Croix-Rousse
- The historic Ampère high school
Contemporary architects (e.g. Stéphane Millet, Kauri Architecture) now incorporate it into upscale residential and public designs — ensuring the tradition lives on.
Star villages of the Pierres Dorées
Meet Oingt, Charnay, Theizé and other jewels
Among the 43 communes, several stand out:
- Oingt: a hilltop gem, labeled Most Beautiful Village of France
- Theizé: home to a working quarry and Rochebonne castle
- Charnay: known for panoramic château views
- Sarcey: gateway to the Monts du Lyonnais
Each village carries its own story — but all are etched in gold.
Vineyards on golden ground
5,000 hectares of vines, from Gamay to Gamaret
The Golden Stones region holds around 5,000 hectares of vineyards, about one-third of all Beaujolais.
The main grape varieties are:
- Gamay Noir (3,900 ha)
- Chardonnay (900 ha)
- Others include Gamaret, Pinot Noir, and Muscat
Toward a dedicated appellation: the DGC Pierres Dorées
A group of local winemakers is pursuing an official DGC designation within the AOC Beaujolais.
The criteria include:
- Yields capped at 45 hl/ha
- Mandatory eco-certification (HVE3, organic, or Terra Vitis)
- Longer ageing and stricter vinification standards
Tasting notes: what wines from golden soils really taste like
- Gamay (Red): Ripe cherry, spice, supple tannins
- Chardonnay (White): Citrus, exotic fruit, saline finish
- Sparkling: Light floral aromas, fine mousse, festive feel
Key figures: yield, exports and land prices
- 16 million bottles/year
- 18% of production exported
- Land values reaching €30,000/ha, up 12% since 2020
UNESCO recognition and the rise of wine tourism
A UNESCO global geopark since 2018
The region is part of the Beaujolais UNESCO Global Geopark, encompassing 121 communes and 30 geosites — from Mont Brouilly to the Glay Quarries.
Trails, trains, tastings: the tourism economy in numbers
- 9,500+ beds
- 645 registered accommodations
- 27% international visitors (mainly from Belgium & the Netherlands)
- 2,000 km of marked hiking routes
- €86 million annual overnight revenue
A “Little Tuscany” that’s more than a nickname
Visitors enjoy:
- 110 km Wine Route with 12 themed circuits
- “Apéro visits” to old quarries (Glay, Bonave)
- Historic railway trails like the “Tacot” line
Labels such as Vignobles & Découvertes and Petites Cités de Caractère recognize the cultural value of these landscapes.
Fragile gold: what the future holds for the Pierres Dorées
Urban pressure, landscape management and climate risk
Key challenges:
- Urban expansion around Villefranche threatens vineyards
- Loss of pastoral land reduces biodiversity and heritage value
- Only two active quarries — risking the stonecraft tradition
- Climate change: advancing ripening, requiring varietal shifts
Local initiatives promote:
- Village densification over sprawl
- Support for grazing practices in valleys
- Investment in stonecutting apprenticeships
- Trials of heat-resistant grape varieties like Gamaret and Roussanne
The Pierres Dorées are the essence of southern Beaujolais.
From ancient seas to elegant homes, from vineyard rows to UNESCO accolades, this golden land tells a story of continuity and reinvention. The stone shines. But so does the future.